Headunits look and feel comparison

WAS - CHINA Headunit

 

NOW - PIONEER Headunit...

Replacementsss...

Not sure was it my luck or just co-incident! 2 amps, headunit and my GPS navigator were DEAD! =X

Well... This time round, I'm going for branded amps and headunit... Sound quality guaranteed!

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1) Due to budget constraint, I chose JBL. Why JBL? Partially because I love the brand, Junk But Loud!

Junk But Loud (JBL) P80.4, 4ch amp

In some forums, as well as online shop review, all owners said this unit is un-rated... It actually perform more than 80W rms per channels... Hmmm.....

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2) I dilemma for quite awhile whether to get a bridged 2ch amp or simple monoblock... Eventually, I decided to try something different and seriously, NO regrets.

I love the way Monoblock pump my woofer and the subsonic control. EXCELLENT!!

Sundown SAE-1000D Monoblock amp

These 2 amps ever work with that dead CHINA headunit for a couple of months, as usual, overall sound quality was not up to my expectation. Nevertheless, this monster generates alot of heat!

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3) Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC, Sony and China headunit, I choose PIONEER but entry level...

Pioneer AVH-X1550DVD

After install and some diy sound tuning, I played the same CD that I used to play on that CHINA headunit... Amazing, the vocal clarity, the richness of those instruments effects and even bass accuracy.. Whoooa... Then I realised, I suffered for 2yrs by that CHINA Headunit. DARN!

Shiok!!!

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4) Because of this lovely headunit, I decided to fully utilize it's capability by adding a GPS module..

Unfortunate is a CHINA GPS unit... Hopefully it served me well...

Order drop, pending for shipping... Will update once I installed...

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5) For convenient sake, I purchase a USB AUX Extension Cable For Car

Same for this, order drop, pending for shipping... Will update once I installed..

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6) As but not least, soundproofing... As weight is a concern to me, I decided to TRY doing soundproofing WITHOUT Bitumen/Tar/Sticky Black Substance. Planning to paste 2 layers of sound deadening "sponge" on 4 doors and maybe roof as well as... Shall see how it goes...

R.I.P China Headunit...

Honestly!! I regretted investing in China Headunit. In fact, I'm happy that it was DEAD whereby it only served me merely 2yrs...

Sound quality SUCKz... Radio reception SUCKz... Touchscreen respond SUCKz... Resolution SUCKz....

Before I dispose, I dismantled it into pieces, smash the 7" LCD screen and all PCBs boards.

PS: NEVER NEVER GET CHINA HEADUNIT! NEVER!

R.I.P Vortex 2350...

After my 4ch amp left me, my 2ch amp left me as well...

It was serving me well these years and suddenly on 1 fine afternoon, I don't hear my woofer pumping while driving... After some troubleshoot, I pronounced this amp is DEAD... =(

R.I.P Volcano VA-4004...

Sad news... My Volcano VA-4004 4ch amp is half crippled. Rear Left MUTED, whereas Front Left when SOFTEN, remaining Right Channels are perfectly fine. =(

This unit had accompanied me since 2007 and travelled together with me for more than 80,000km on road...

Hereby, GOODBYE....

A quick start guide to amplifier settings

If you are setting an amplifier for a subwoofer (or more than one subwoofer):

 

FULL/LPF/HPF: This is a setting that tells the amplifier what frequencies to pass on to the speakers connected to the amplifier you're adjusting. "Full"

FULL is full range (all frequencies)

HP is "High Pass" or anything above the specified frequency will be passed on to the speakers

LP is "Low Pass" or anything below the specified frequency, which is set on a separate dial.
For subs, you will want to select the LPF setting.

 

XO (CROSSOVER) FREQ or FREQUENCY: This sets the frequency at which the sound will begin to diminish in volume beyond this point.
(For subs, you will want to start with a setting of 50Hz. If this seems a bit low, you can try increasing to 60Hz after trying an initial setting of 50Hz.)

 

CUT/BOOST: This is an equalization setting, usually centered somewhere around 40Hz. This can add distortion and cause clipping if the setting is turned too far up. I suggest leaving this set to zero, or "off."

 

BRIDGED: This setting is for multi-channel amplifiers, and allows you to combine two amplifier channels to drive one speaker with the combined power of both channels. If an amplifier is 2 ohm stable in stereo, it will be only 4 ohm stable when bridged. Unless you need to bridge the amplifier, leave this button or switched turned off.

 

Q-FACTOR (SLOPE): This setting works in conjunction with the crossover point to determine how quickly the volume of your music will decrease as frequency extends beyond your crossover point. For a subwoofer, set this to 18dB/octave.

 

PHASE: The phase setting synchronizes the phase of your subwoofer output to that of the other speakers in the car. This topic is a bit complex to explain, but most amplifiers have a switch for 0 or 180 degrees. Set your amp to 0 and listen to a track with some bass. Afterward, set the Phase setting to 180 degrees, and see if the bass output improves or becomes worse with the same track. Leave the switch set to whichever setting yields the best results.

 

GAIN or INPUT SENSITIVITY: This setting is used to balance your amplifier's input impedance or level to that of your line voltage from the ehad unit or line driver.

If you need an initial setting before dialing this in properly, set the gain dial to "minimum sensitivity" or the highest voltage setting listed (usually all the way counter-clockwise.) Next, turn the dial one-quarter turn up, and start from here. I would not suggest turning the gain any higher than half-way on the first try without using a DMM to set the gain properly.

 

 

 

If you are using a separate amplifier for your component speakers:

 

FULL/LPF/HPF: This is a setting that tells the amplifier what frequencies to pass on to the speakers connected to the amplifier you're adjusting. "Full"

FULL is full range (all frequencies)

HP is "High Pass" or anything above the specified frequency will be passed on to the speakers

LP is "Low Pass" or anything below the specified frequency, which is set on a separate dial.

(For components, separates, 6x9s, coaxials, etc., you will want to select the HPF setting.)

 

XO (CROSSOVER) FREQ or FREQUENCY: This sets the frequency at which the sound will begin to diminish in volume beyond this point.
For midrange speakers, you will want to start with a setting of 100 to 125Hz. For midbass drivers (7" and 8") set HPF to 80Hz

 

CUT/BOOST: This is an equalization setting, usually centered somewhere around 40Hz. This can add distortion and cause clipping if the setting is turned too far up. I suggest leaving this set to zero, or "off."

 

BRIDGED: This setting is for multi-channel amplifiers, and allows you to combine two amplifier channels to drive one speaker with the combined power of both channels. If an amplifier is 2 ohm stable in stereo, it will be only 4 ohm stable when bridged. Unless you need to bridge the amplifier, leave this button or switched turned off.

 

Q-FACTOR (SLOPE): This setting works in conjunction with the crossover point to determine how quickly the volume of your music will decrease as frequency extends beyond your crossover point. For midrange, set this to 12dB/octave.

 

PHASE: The phase setting synchronizes the phase of your subwoofer output to that of the other speakers in the car. This topic is a bit complex to explain, but most amplifiers have a switch for 0 or 180 degrees. Set your amp to 0 (zero) or "off."

 

GAIN or INPUT SENSITIVITY: This setting is used to balance your amplifier's input impedance or level to that of your line voltage from the ehad unit or line driver.

If you need an initial setting before dialing this in properly, set the gain dial to "minimum sensitivity" or the highest voltage setting listed (usually all the way counter-clockwise.) Next, turn the dial one-quarter turn up, and start from here. I would not suggest turning the gain any higher than half-way on the first try without using a DMM to set the gain properly.

 

 

 

 

If you are setting an amplifier to run your door or package shelf speakers with NO subwoofer present:

 

FULL/LPF/HPF: This is a setting that tells the amplifier what frequencies to pass on to the speakers connected to the amplifier you're adjusting. "Full"
 

 

FULL is full range (all frequencies)
 

 

HP is "High Pass" or anything above the specified frequency will be passed on to the speakers
 

 

LP is "Low Pass" or anything below the specified frequency, which is set on a separate dial.
For components, separates, 6x9s, coaxials, etc., you will want to select the FULL setting. If you find that your spakers distort from the bass, then set this to, "HPF."

 

XO (CROSSOVER) FREQ or FREQUENCY: This sets the frequency at which the sound will begin to diminish in volume beyond this point.
(For full-range speakers, this setting will be bypassed with the XO set to "FULL." If you select "HPF," then set this to 80Hz.)

 

CUT/BOOST: This is an equalization setting, usually centered somewhere around 40Hz. This can add distortion and cause clipping if the setting is turned too far up. I suggest leaving this set to zero, or "off."

 

BRIDGED: This setting is for multi-channel amplifiers, and allows you to combine two amplifier channels to drive one speaker with the combined power of both channels. If an amplifier is 2 ohm stable in stereo, it will be only 4 ohm stable when bridged. Unless you need to bridge the amplifier, leave this button or switched turned off.

 

Q-FACTOR (SLOPE): This setting works in conjunction with the crossover point to determine how quickly the volume of your music will decrease as frequency extends beyond your crossover point. For midrange, set this to 12dB/octave.

 

PHASE: The phase setting synchronizes the phase of your subwoofer output to that of the other speakers in the car. This topic is a bit complex to explain, but most amplifiers have a switch for 0 or 180 degrees. Set your amp to 0 (zero) or "off."

 

GAIN or INPUT SENSITIVITY: This setting is used to balance your amplifier's input impedance or level to that of your line voltage from the ehad unit or line driver.
 

If you need an initial setting before dialing this in properly, set the gain dial to "minimum sensitivity" or the highest voltage setting listed (usually all the way counter-clockwise.) Next, turn the dial one-quarter turn up, and start from here. I would not suggest turning the gain any higher than half-way on the first try without using a DMM to set the gain properly.

 

 

Capacitor is meant for devices that are hunger for current, specifically subwoofer + amplifier. In theory, Capacitor will stabilise current and remove electronics noise, hence improve all electronics components performance in your cars. Capacitor will compensate a sudden high current lost, especially on heavy and loud bass. It will also resolve the light dimming issue when you are on loud music, meaning regain original stable brightness. 

As for Voltage stabiliser, it is actually an Impedance stabiliser. Meaning it ONLY stabilise your load to your battery. So your lights will dimmed but stable irregardless on loud or soft music. In fact, Voltage stabilizer is best for engine ignition and protection to your battery because it stabilise your load. 

Grounding cables are to reduce noise to electronics components. VERY important for ICE, especially those using CHINA amplifiers. Tweeters are the most sensitive speakers among all, hence sound quality will improve too. These noises are produced by the alternator during charging. 

As for all the above will increase torque, more horsepower, blar blar blar are all indirectly agreeable but not a significant improvement. 

Capacitor --> Stabilise current and compensate current lose 
**Current is known as Ampere (A) 

Voltage Stabiliser = Impedance Stabiliser --> Stabilise load 
**Impedance is known as Ohm 

Grounding --> Eliminate noise 
** Noise is know as Decibel (db) 

Conclusion is all the above 3 devices are meant for 3 different things. 

Pls correct me if I’m wrong. Thx.